Monday, February 27, 2023

Final Weekend in Normandy



For my final weekend in France, I was delighted to have accepted an invitation to visit Villers-sur-mer in Normandy and stay with my former host family. During my junior year study abroad spring semester in 2015 and my internship at the US embassy in 2016, I had the pleasure to stay with a wonderful and welcoming French family. We have kept in touch over the years, and each time that I am in Paris, we always see one another. The family has a spectacular home in Villers-sur-mer, which I had been fortunate to have visited with them over the years, so when they offered for me to join them for a family weekend at their home, I couldn't help, but say "oui, avec plaisir!"

Aside from Paris, Normandy remains my favorite region in France, and each time that I visit, I like to explore and experience a new town. Thus, I decided to immensely elongate my train connection between Paris and Villers-sur-Mer and spend an afternoon in Rouen, the capital of Normandy. To quote our family's favorite tour guide, Rick Steves, "This 2,000-year-old city mixes Gothic architecture, half-timbered houses, and contemporary bustle like no other place in France. While its industrial suburbs were devastated by WWII bombs, most of the historic core survived, keeping Rouen a pedestrian haven. Its cobbled old town is a delight to wander." Check out some pictures from this weekend!


Friday: Rouen Excursion

Rouen enjoys an exceptional heritage. Located 1h20 minutes by train from Paris, its Gothic and Renaissance architectural masterpieces and town houses of the classical period offer a sight for the eyes. Plus, it has over 50 major historical monuments and its museums (most of which are free to visit) are among the richest in France and the world.

The Fine Arts Museum of Rouen

Claude Monet's "Rue Montorgueil in Paris (Celebration of June 30, 1878)"

The Fine Arts Museum is home to the most important collection of Impressionist work outside of Paris, featuring Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, and Sisley with many of their work focused on scenes from the Seine River. 

Claude Monet's "Notre Dame Cathedral of Rouen"

Joan of Arc, the renowned martyr of the Hundreds Years' War, was burned at the stake here at the Old Market Square on May 30, 1431. The cross marks the spot where she was burned to commemorate her contribution to the war and to history. 

Rouen's Great Clock, which consists of a Gothic belfry, a Renaissance archway and clockface, and a 18th century fountain. The belfry houses the city bells and is one of the oldest clock operations in Europe.

A view of the clock taken from the other side and the classic Norman half-timbered buildings on display 

In the heart of the historic city, the Notre Dame Cathedral of Rouen has been the epitome of the development of Gothic art, since the start of its construction in the 12th century. Its 19th century cast iron spire rises to the height of 511 meters, making it the tallest in France.    

Saint Maclou Church: one of the most beautiful testimonies of the flamboyant Gothic style: the late flowering of this art before the advent of the Renaissance architecture, its doorway with its five porches is adorned with magnificent, sculpted doors from the Renaissance order. 

Saint Maclou Church's interior 

Saint Maclou Ossuary: this is one of the last surviving necropolises in Europe to be found in the city center. Its origins date to the Great Plague of 1348, which killed three quarters of the neighborhood's inhabitants, and the courtyard (pictured above) served as a cemetery at that time.  

Pretty half-timbered houses along a quiet street in the city center 

Le Secq des Tournelles or Wrought Ironwork Museum: This highly unusual institution, the brainchild of the donor Henry le Secq des Tournelles, is housed in a former Gothic church and displays the largest collection of old ironwork in the world, from the Gallo-Roman period to the 19th century. There are more than 16,000 objects from all areas of life: not only gratings and banisters, but also locks, keys, jewelry, door knockers, scientific instruments, and more!

Saturday & Sunday: Villers-sur-Mer

From Friday evening to Sunday afternoon, I spent time with my former host family (the mother, her oldest son, his fianceƩ, and his fianceƩ's parents). We had such a lovely and relaxing time together! We caught up, laughed, enjoyed long meals and conversations, ate and drank extremely well (the fruits de mer platter from the local poissonnerie-or fish merchant in English-was the highlight!) and enjoyed each other's company.

Their wonderful home!

The view of the sea from their balcony 

The intimate and cozy living room + dining room

The town's post office 

The main shopping street

The boardwalk 

Typical Normand houses

The house at the end of the street 

Running along the beach to the "Vaches Noirs" or "Black Cows" of Villers. These rocks are an accumulation of sediment from the Jurassic period (roughly 160 million years ago) are made of clay and calcium. Given this material, these rocks (and the nearby cliffs) have conserved millions of fossils over the milleniums, which makes this area a fascinating site to explore for paleontologists. The "Black Cows" derive their name from folklore: once upon a time, villages thought that they saw black cows roaming on the sand, but when they approached this area, they saw that these were, in fact, rocks, not cows! However, the name has stuck and is still used today!


Right before I headed back on the train, my former host mother and I walked around Deauville, the luxurious seaside town.We toured the seaside cabins, which American movie starts have access to, during the annual Deauville American film festival!

Deauville's beach

 

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